Systems supplied & installed · Service · Oil conversions
Ductless mini-split systems supplied, installed, and serviced across Orange, Sullivan, and Ulster County. One room or every room — no ductwork, no oil deliveries, no waiting until September. 25 years in construction. Most single-zone jobs done in a day. Licensed electrician on every job.
Cold-climate operating range
These aren't your uncle's heat pumps. Properly sized cold-climate systems keep heating down to 22 below — through a Catskills January — and cool the same rooms all summer. No ducts. No oil deliveries.
What I install
I supply the equipment on most jobs — cold-climate rated, matched to the rooms it's actually heating. You'll see the model, the specs, and what it costs before you agree to anything.
Single zone
The addition that never got heat. The bedroom over the garage. The finished attic that's 90° in July. One outdoor unit, one indoor head, usually done in a day.
Multi zone
One outdoor unit running several indoor heads, each with its own thermostat. Heat the bedrooms at night without paying to condition the whole house.
Whole house
A full cold-climate system sized by room-by-room heat loss to replace an oil or propane furnace outright — and the utility rebate that comes with decommissioning it.
Equipment options run from value-brand cold-climate units to higher-end systems. I'll tell you straight what the difference actually buys you in this climate, and what it doesn't. Already bought a unit yourself? I'll install that too — see below.
Pricing
Nobody else around here will give you a number before they're standing in your living room. These are honest ranges for typical work, so you know roughly where you stand before you pick up the phone. Your exact price comes with the written estimate — fixed before I start, no surprises on the invoice.
| Service | Price | What's included |
|---|---|---|
| Supplied & installedSingle zone, equipment included | $4,200–5,200 | New cold-climate system installed complete — equipment, labor, licensed electrician, startup, and any permit your town requires. Sized to the room, not guessed at. |
| Install your unitSingle zone, you supply the equipment | $800–1,200 | Mounting, line-set routing, penetrations sealed and flashed, condensate, startup and testing, walkthrough. The job other shops decline. The electrician — and a permit if your town requires one — are covered in your written estimate. |
| Each extra zoneAdd a room to a multi-zone system | +$600–900 | Additional indoor head, line set, and commissioning on the same visit where possible. |
| Service callDiagnosis, repair, warranty paperwork | $150–250 | Including the manufacturer-required diagnosis documentation for warranty parts claims — the paperwork most people can't get anyone to do. |
| Whole-house conversionReplace oil or propane heat entirely | Quoted | Room-by-room heat-loss calculation, then a fixed price. See the oil section below. |
Where you land in a range depends on the house — wall construction, line-set length, where the condenser goes, and how far the electrical panel sits from the unit. I'll walk it with you, then put one fixed number in writing before anything gets drilled. Buried oil tank removal, if you have one, is quoted separately through a licensed tank contractor.
Oil & propane conversions
Two-thirds of the homes in Sullivan County still heat with oil or propane. At today's prices, that's a bill that shows up four times a winter and never gets smaller.
THAT NUMBER IS YOURS TO CHECK — it's last winter's delivery tickets times the price on them. Bring me the tickets and I'll run your actual heat-pump comparison against them, no charge and no obligation.
Sam's Club, Home Depot, and Amazon sell thousands of mini-splits a year around here, and then the HVAC companies won't touch them — no equipment markup, no interest. So the box sits in a garage all summer. I'll install it, correctly and to code, and service it afterward. Send me a photo of what you've got.
Service
There are thousands of self-installed mini-splits across all three counties, and almost no one willing to service them. If yours isn't cooling, isn't heating, or is throwing a code, I'll come look at it — no matter who installed it.
01
Usually a refrigerant leak at a connection, a blocked coil, or a sensor. I find it, tell you what it costs, and fix it or document it for a parts claim.
02
Manufacturers require a technician's diagnosis before they'll send a part under warranty. That's a service call most homeowners can't get booked. It's a normal Tuesday for me.
03
Sagging line sets, unsealed penetrations, condensate draining into a wall cavity, a condenser sitting in the dirt. All of it is repairable. Most of it I've already seen.
Where we work
Based here, working here. Orange and Sullivan are home; southern and western Ulster are an easy run. If your town isn't listed and you're nearby, ask anyway.
Orange County
Sullivan County
Ulster County
Questions
I supply it on most jobs — that's the normal way this works. I size the system to your actual rooms, show you the model and the specs, and the equipment cost is right there in your written estimate. You're welcome to buy your own instead if you'd rather; I install those too. What I won't do is put in a system that's the wrong size for the space because it was what somebody had on a shelf.
Yes — that's a core part of what I do. Bring me a MrCool or any similar pre-charged system and I'll install it properly: mounted level, line set routed and supported, penetrations flashed and sealed, condensate pitched correctly, connections torqued to spec and leak-tested, licensed electrician on the circuit, and a permit filed if your town requires one. On MrCool's DIY line, having me do the work doesn't affect your factory warranty — their warranty terms specifically don't require a licensed HVAC contractor.
A properly selected cold-climate system will, and I'll show you the math on your specific house before you buy anything. The important part is sizing: I do a room-by-room heat-loss calculation rather than guessing. The trap is a cheap unit sold as a "heat pump" that quits below freezing — I won't put one of those in as your only heat source, even if you ask me to.
Around here, usually not for a ductless install — it varies town by town, and plenty of them don't require one. I'll tell you straight which category your address falls in before we start, and if a permit is required I file it and handle the inspection. Either way the work is done to code, because your manufacturer's warranty depends on a code-compliant installation whether a permit is involved or not.
A county-licensed master electrician, on every job, priced into your quote. Both Orange, Sullivan, and Ulster County require a county license for electrical work — so no matter how simple the circuit is, I don't touch it and neither should anybody else without that license. It's usually a dedicated 240V circuit and an outdoor disconnect.
It's the value brand, and I'll be straight with you about the tradeoff: you get strong performance per dollar and a warranty that survives a non-dealer install, but not the parts network or the long service history of a Mitsubishi or a Daikin. The most common failure I see is a slow refrigerant leak, which is exactly why I torque every connection to spec and leak-test before I leave. If you'd rather spend more for a premium system, tell me and I'll quote that instead.
Most single-zone installs are a single day, including the electrician. Multi-zone systems and whole-house conversions run two to three days. You'll get a real date, and I show up on it.
They're real and they're significant — several thousand dollars toward a whole-house conversion, with the biggest amounts when you permanently remove an oil or propane system. Two things to know: the system has to be sized to heat the entire house, and the rebate can only be filed by a contractor enrolled in the utility's program. I'm completing that enrollment now. Ask me where it stands before you schedule a conversion — if the timing doesn't work in your favor yet, I'll tell you to wait rather than let you miss it.
A photo of the unit in your garage, or a photo of your oil tank. Either one is enough for me to start.
(845) 250-5906Call or text · Free estimates · Orange, Sullivan & Ulster County